Lunuganga, Bentota
Sri Lanka, South West Beaches

"Over the years moving through the garden as it grew, one saw the potential of various areas which had inherently different atmospheres. For instance, the long view to the south ended with the temple, but in the middle distance was a ridge with a splendid ancient moonamal tree and when I placed a large Chinese jar under it, the hand of man was established in this middle distance. Now the eye stops here, travels to the glimmer of the lake beyond, to the slope across a long stretch of rice fields and to the stupa on the crown of the far hill across the lake. In this view the vision of the lake was too slight to be effective and it became obvious that a part of the ridge needed to be lowered a few feet to make this whole composition establish itself with a total finality which has not changed and now looks as if it had been there since the beginning of time."

Geoffrey Bawa

The home of the late, great architect, Geoffrey Bawa, has now opened as a small hotel. For this we should be grateful: Lunuganga is an awe inspiring place to stay or dine at as a day-guest.

Over a forty year period, Geoffrey Bawa transformed this abandoned cinnamon and rubber estate into his own private garden idyll.We are told the influences of the Italian Renaissance and 19th-century England helped inform this tropical garden, while Bawa claimed the garden planned itself: whichever it was; the effect is a tropical joy to behold.

As Bawa intended, the garden offers varied an contrasting sensations a garden of many moods from shady clearings in the jungle, the lilly ponds framed by frangipani trees and the glorious views out over the lake. From the house, steps take you down to a private bathing place in the lake in place of a pool. Apart from creating so many private places for contemplation of altering atmospheres the trees are the real feature here: there are over 200 varieties.

The buildings themselves are a uniquely personal testament to Bawas powers as an architect and his artistic convictions. Light, space and environment are given full reign which the living spaces are tremendously, well, liveable. The buildings cannot be described without seeing them, but suffice to say, the effect is to concentrate the inhabitant on the wonder of nature outside.

The Guest Room is a refined space filled with antiques and sculptures. Attached is a moss-walled courtyard and a large tub. The converted cowshed which is now the Gallery, is a magnificent two two-floor suite filled with wonderful pieces including an portrait of Bawa by the renowned Sri Lankan artist, Laki Sennayake. The Long Room is intriguing a long narrow space with two parallel walls of glass keeping out the dust, but allowing the sun full reign over the four poster bed. The Donald Friend Room, home in Bawas time to his friend, the artist of the same name, is gorgeous hideaway. Finally, a two bedroom cottage by the lake is also offered for rent for a guest preferring complete privacy.

Describing this hotel is beyond my powers. Suffice to say that it is part of Sri Lankas rich heritage, and staying here is a wonderful privilege now open for all.

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Superior - This is our first really 'upmarket' category. It might be a beautiful tiny hotel with very limited facilities or a 5* resort hotel with all the trimmings; but any hotel in this category will be a well-run establishment with very comfortable rooms, a strong service ethos and excellent food.

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